Posted by Les Mauvaises Herbes
Are you a DIY graduate? You make pretty much everything: your deodorant, your serum, your shampoo... Now you're ready to make your own moisturizing creams!
Making your own moisturizing cream is surprising, fun, ultra-satisfying, and above all, much simpler than you think! You just have to trust yourself, take the time to do your research, and then jump in.
However, be careful! The world of moisturizing creams is swarming with ingredients that aren't so clean: emulsifiers packed with palm oil, for example, or preservatives that are more or less natural and have very limited effectiveness. The challenge is that these ingredients are essential elements for making moisturizing creams. It’s impossible to do without them.
This was a hurdle for us for a long time, until we finally discovered the Eco emulsifier and the Eco preservative, which meet our requirements.
Thanks to these 2 ingredients and the article that follows, you will be able to discover the wonderful world of homemade moisturizing creams and embark on experiments that are all more fascinating (!) than the last. Because concocting custom creams for yourself and for those you love is just nice.
Ready for the challenge?
A bit of theory
An appetizer to start: clarifications and demystification.
Creams vs. butters & ointments
Yes, each term refers to a specific type of skincare product. It is worth clarifying everything, because, take our word for it, misunderstanding can sometimes cause a lot of inconvenience.
Butters & ointments
They consist solely of fatty ingredients (referred to as an oil phase), i.e., vegetable oils, vegetable butters, and waxes.
These are simple, nourishing, protective, and versatile products that do not present any particular manufacturing challenges. You can easily concoct a face butter with a few cups and measuring spoons in no time. As for making creams, it is drastically different.
Furthermore, butters, ointments, and the like are very stable and have no preservation challenges a priori, since they do not contain water. Bacteria and mold develop in water. Since butters and ointments are made only of an oil phase, this problem does not exist, and they do not require any preservative, as long as the mixture is protected from potential water contaminants.
Their disadvantage? They have a greasier finish (which doesn't please everyone and is less practical in certain situations) and are not intrinsically moisturizing. If you want to hydrate the skin, you must use them in conjunction with an aqueous phase or apply them to damp skin.
Creams
A cream consists of two phases: an oil phase and an aqueous phase.
- Oil phase: vegetable oils, vegetable butters, waxes
- Aqueous phase: water, hydrosol, aloe juice and gel*, vegetable glycerin
*Important: some ingredients that contain a lot of minerals, such as aloe juice and gel, may not be entirely suitable for the Eco emulsifier and can sometimes result in unstable emulsions. You can still include them in your recipes, with the caveat that the result might not be optimal. Try it out as an experiment!
First of all, since water and oil/fat molecules do not combine naturally, an additional agent (emulsifier) is needed to bind the water and oil droplets together. A bit like a Kraft vinaigrette. It's an emulsion!
Furthermore, due to the presence of water, it is essential to use a preservative to protect the product from bacteria and mold. Bacteria and mold develop in water.
By its composition, a cream therefore offers the skin hydration and protection, in addition to a lighter and less greasy finish. However, sometimes creams are not always rich enough to protect or nourish the skin (e.g., winter, seasonal changes, sports activities, after-sun care, etc.). For these situations, butters and ointments are perfect.
Like in a lab 👩🔬: precision & accuracy
Preparing a cream requires much more precaution and precision than a butter or ointment. Starting this type of manufacturing involves weighing all ingredients precisely, sterilizing the workspace and tools, ensuring you follow the manufacturing steps, temperatures, etc.
Types of emulsifiers
There are two types of emulsifiers:
- Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifiers: they coat oil droplets with water and are typically used for obtaining light and fluid creams (e.g., day cream, body lotion).
- Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers: they coat water droplets with oil and are typically used for obtaining rich and thick creams (e.g., night cream, sunscreens, hand or foot creams for very dry skin).
The oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier is more common and versatile. Our Eco emulsifier is an oil-in-water (O/W) type. Although it is primarily used for light creams, it can also be used to create richer formulations to obtain a night care or more nourishing and protective product (for mature or sensitive skin, for example).
Important note
The recipes you will find in our online store are designed and tested with the Eco emulsifier. If you use a different emulsifier, it is possible that the manufacturing steps will be slightly different. Simply consult the information provided by the manufacturer.
"What about beeswax and sunflower wax?"
Contrary to what many believe, these are not emulsifiers. Beeswax and sunflower wax are thickening agents.
It is certainly possible to add a hydrosol to a mixture of oil phase and wax, then whip it, but the result is only a suspension, not a real emulsion. The result may appear stable, but it will eventually phase-separate.
The famous cold cream
In the case of beeswax, the one and only way to make it an emulsifier is to use it with borax to create a cold cream (like the popular Pond's cream), an ancestral recipe. In fact, the borax (which is basic) saponifies the beeswax and other fats, resulting in a creamy substance. So in the end, it is not the wax that is the emulsifier, but rather the "soap" that results from it.
The world of "natural" emulsifiers
The market is full of many options: Emulsifuze, Ritamulse, Olivem, Lanette, Polawax, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid... What do they have in common? PALM OIL.
It’s all well and good to claim vegetable origin... But if the emulsifier is completely derived from palm oil, it’s much less interesting from an environmental perspective, as palm oil cultivation is a direct cause of deforestation of the Amazon rainforest.
The Eco Emulsifier: much more than a simple emulsifier!
Our Eco emulsifier, an oil-in-water (O/W) type, is 100% plant-based and palm oil-free! It is a glucolipid-type emulsifier (derived from a blend of sugars (wheat, corn, or cassava) and fats (rapeseed)).
Much more than a simple emulsifier, it is a real value-add for your cream, as its structure gives it intrinsic moisturizing properties, facilitating the action of the other moisturizing elements in your formulation. It offers effective and continuous hydration for up to 5 hours, as it acts on the skin's lipid barrier by strengthening it: it slows down transepidermal water loss.
Furthermore, it is PEG-free, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, and compliant with Ecocert and COSMOS standards. Note that, despite the name of some of its ingredients (arachidyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), there is no peanut-derived ingredient, and there is no risk of allergy.
Preservatives
A party of bacteria or mold in your cream? No thanks!
The Eco Preservative: versatile!
Our Eco preservative is super safe, broad-spectrum, and tested and proven by many cosmetic manufacturers and DIY enthusiasts. The glycerin it contains is derived from canola and soy oils (no palm oil!). YAAAY!
It is a broad-spectrum preservative effective over a wide pH range (3 to 8), compliant with Ecocert and COSMOS standards, compatible with gels, and free of parabens, formaldehyde, fragrance, and isothiazolone.
Its only downside is that it is not recommended in leave-on products for children under 3 years old due to the salicylic acid it contains. However, it is perfectly safe in rinse-off products (shower gel, shampoo, conditioner).
Making your moisturizing cream: the steps!
1. Equipment sterilization
To keep your cream for several months, you must imperatively disinfect your manufacturing equipment, your workspace, and the container in which your cream will be stored. Unlike anhydrous (water-free) cosmetics like balms, butters, and ointments, the presence of water in the cream creates an environment favorable to the development of bacteria and mold.
To do this, use 70% isopropyl alcohol (or rubbing alcohol, available at pharmacies). 99% isopropyl alcohol is not effective for disinfection! We like using a spray bottle to mist alcohol onto tools before wiping them with a paper towel or clean cloth, or letting it evaporate naturally.
2. Ingredient preparation
The ingredients are divided into three parts clearly identified in the recipes:
- the aqueous phase (ingredients containing water or soluble in water)
- the oil phase (ingredients containing fat or soluble in fat)
- the cooling phase (ingredients sensitive to heat that must be added at the very end of the recipe once the temperature has dropped)
The ingredients of the aqueous phase and the oil phase must be heated in separate containers, but they can be in the same pot/double boiler. You can weigh the ingredients directly in the container that will be used to heat them.
The ratio between the quantities of aqueous phase, oil phase, and emulsifier must be respected to obtain an emulsion that holds together; this is why it is essential to weigh the ingredients rather than measuring them with measuring spoons or by the drop.
Furthermore, since some ingredients are present in very small quantities, you must use a 0.01g precision scale. Unfortunately, a kitchen scale (1g or 0.1g) is not precise or sensitive enough to make cream.
Note on using the scale
Simply turn it on, place a container on the tray, and press the T key (for "tare"), which resets the count to zero and thus removes the weight of your container. Then, pour your ingredient into the container until the numbers indicate the correct quantity. You can repeat these steps to measure several ingredients in the same container.
3. Heating the ingredients
Both phases must be heated to a temperature of 85°C (185°F). The oil phase temperature rises quite quickly, while the aqueous phase rises a bit more slowly. We recommend placing a lid (disinfected with alcohol), without screwing it on, on the aqueous phase jar: it helps the temperature rise faster and recovers evaporated water.
What is important at this stage is that the oil phase reaches at least 85°C and that when you combine them, both phases have the same temperature, or almost. It is therefore not a big deal if one of the phases exceeds 85°C by a few degrees.
4. Emulsifying the two phases
You can use only two tools to create the emulsion: a cordless mini-whisk (like the one from the Norpro brand, which you can find online, we recommend model 2273 or 2273C) equipped with its de-flocculating attachment (the small metal wheel), or an immersion hand blender (the one you use for soup).
You cannot use a milk frother, egg beater, stand mixer, or other tools. The mini-whisk and the blender shear the water and fat particles in addition to mixing them; this is what creates a homogeneous, stable emulsion!
We emulsify our cream for two minutes, maximum three. If you emulsify for longer, the mixture will separate like mayonnaise that splits or whipped cream that collapses. It is normal that after two minutes, the emulsion is still quite liquid; the cream will reach its final texture after cooling completely, i.e., after 24 hours.
5. Cooling
Before adding the heat-sensitive ingredients, let the cream cool to a temperature equal to or below 40°C (104°F). We do not recommend putting the emulsion in an ice bath or the fridge to speed up the process. You have to arm yourself with a little patience! Stir the emulsion regularly with a small spatula so that it solidifies evenly and to avoid the formation of lumps. Do not use the mini-whisk or the hand blender for this step.
When the thermometer indicates 40°C (104°F) or less, it's time to add the cooling phase ingredients: the Eco preservative and the heat-sensitive actives.
It is better to wait until the cream has cooled completely before bottling it or putting on a lid, but other than that, it is ready to use.
Would you like to learn all this live and learn even more about the ingredients? Join our in-person cream-making workshop!
Try our recipes!
Face cream for all skin types - orange blossom
This light base cream is versatile and suitable for both face AND body. As with everything, you can vary the hydrosols and oils to personalize it. We love it for its velvety, non-greasy finish, fast absorption, and ability to preserve skin hydration. Once you try it, there's no going back!
- Marie
Préparation
45 min
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
100 ml
Eye contour cream - rose and immortelle
A rich, silky cream perfect for preserving the suppleness and vitality of the delicate skin around the eyes. Its texture is thicker than what we usually formulate and it is made of refined ingredients that give it a luxurious feel. A luxurious treatment!
Préparation
45 min
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
50 ml
Face cream - sensitive skin, rosacea and couperose
Is your skin going through a lot? You'll love this light face cream made with anti-inflammatory oils and soothing essential oils. Especially designed for sensitive, reactive skin prone to redness!
Préparation
45 minutes
Conservation
3 à 6 mois
Rendement
50 ml
Sea buckthorn facial cream for mature skin
This cream, whose hue is reminiscent of ripe mango, owes its color to sea buckthorn oil, well known for its regenerating and soothing effect, in addition to being rich in carotenoids and other antioxidants that help counteract the harmful effects of the sun. Combined here with geranium, cistus, and ylang-ylang essential oils, it's quite a cocktail for mature skin!
Préparation
45 minutes
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
50 ml
Acne cream - black seed and witch hazel
This ultra-light face cream combines fabulous ingredients with sebum-regulating, astringent, purifying and antibacterial properties to combat acne breakouts. Another reason to make this recipe right away: it smells like a little lemon cake!
Préparation
30 min
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
50 g
Borage eczema cream
This rich and nourishing cream features borage oil, which helps the skin retain its moisture, an absolute must for thirsty, eczema-prone skin!
Préparation
30 min
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
100 ml
Fir and geranium body cream
There are some recipes so incredible you want to eat them, like this one. What makes it so incredible is the balsam fir macerate it contains. It smells like cotton candy and sweets, no joke. Mixed with geranium and bergamot, it’s absolutely divine.
Préparation
45 min
Conservation
12 mois
Rendement
100 ml
Cream for stinky or cracked feet
What could be better than offering this creamy balm to our poor feet that support us all day long! It contains nourishing sunflower oil and mango butter, ideal for dry skin, hydrolats that stimulate blood circulation and reduce edema, as well as antifungal essential oils to prevent bad odors caused by mycosis. Yum.
Préparation
45 minutes
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
environ 125 ml
Frequently asked questions
Can I double, triple, or quadruple the recipe?
Yes! You can also divide the recipe, but we recommend not making batches smaller than 50 grams since a quantity that small makes handling and manufacturing more difficult.
My cream isn't white. What did I do wrong?
Nothing! Pigmented vegetable oils (hemp, tamanu, sea buckthorn, camelina, etc.) and certain additives will tint the cream. This is completely normal.
My cream is too liquid!
After emulsifying, the cream is sometimes very liquid, almost like milk. This is normal! It needs to cool down before reaching its final texture, which can take up to 24 hours. Don't panic and don't continue to emulsify for more than 3 minutes.
However, to optimize the creaminess of your cream, you can change or recharge the batteries of your mini-whisk. The more powerful it is, the creamier your cream will be!
If your cream still remains liquid, there was a snag in your measurements or your emulsion. That's part of the learning process. Keep going!
My cream is separating! What’s happening?
Several possibilities:
1- You modified the recipe too much. Yes, you can switch one vegetable oil for another. The same goes for hydrosols and essential oils, in the same quantities. However, if you change the quantities of ingredients without mastering the basics of moisturizing cream formulation, it's risky. Use our recipes as a framework and don't modify them excessively; they have been tested and approved.
2- The ingredient measurements are incorrect or not exact. Make sure to weigh each ingredient carefully. Accuracy is key in this type of recipe.
3- Too much of the aqueous phase evaporated during heating. Always place a lid on the container of the aqueous phase; this will limit evaporation and ensure you keep a maximum amount of the aqueous phase.
4- The emulsion was not carried out with the appropriate tool.
5- The ingredients did not reach 85°C (185°F). Check our tips in the next point!
6- The cream was emulsified for too long, or not long enough. Emulsify for 2 to 3 minutes, maximum.
7- You did not stir the cream gently while it cooled.
8- The cream got too hot or too cold. Was it carried around in a bag during a heatwave? Left in the car? Put in the fridge? An emulsion must be kept at room temperature.
9- The stars weren't aligned! Haha! But seriously, we sometimes fail our recipes completely too! Mercury in retrograde or human error? We'll never know. But a flop is part of the learning process and that’s perfectly okay.
The ingredients are having trouble reaching 85°C (185°F). What can I do?
The oil phase generally has no trouble reaching 85°C quickly. The aqueous phase, however, is more temperamental. Placing a lid (without screwing it on) on the aqueous phase helps retain heat in the jar and reach the right temperature more quickly.
Otherwise, note that you can heat your ingredients in a small pot directly on a heat source instead of using a double boiler. Keep a close eye on the temperature so it doesn't get too high—it happens fast!
Can I replace the Éco preservative with Vitamin E?
No! Vitamin E is an antioxidant, not a preservative. It prolongs the shelf life of a cream by slowing down the rancidity of the oils, but it has no impact on the development of bacteria and mold. We cover Vitamin E in great detail right here.
We are also sometimes asked if the Éco preservative can be replaced by grapefruit seed extract. Unfortunately, no. Grapefruit seed extract is not a broad-spectrum preservative (broad-spectrum = effective against bacteria, yeasts, and molds alike), and it only extends the life of products containing an aqueous phase by one month.
What happens if I don't put a preservative in my cream?
You risk serious skin infections. We don't mess around with that! Except for rare exceptions, recipes containing water or aqueous ingredients require a preservative agent.
Can I substitute some ingredients for others?
Many ingredients are interchangeable in cream recipes, such as essential oils, which you can swap for others as long as you respect the quantities and recommendations for those specific ingredients. The same applies to vegetable oils, vegetable butters, and hydrosols.
You can replace the Éco emulsifier with another emulsifying wax, but you cannot replace it with beeswax, soy wax, or any other vegetable wax.
You can replace the Éco preservative with another broad-spectrum preservative.
It is your responsibility to ensure that the ingredients you use are compatible with emulsions and appropriate for skincare.
I often see xanthan gum in cream recipes. Can I add it?
Yes! Gelling agents like xanthan gum stabilize the emulsion and make the cream creamier and firmer. We use it at a 0.2% ratio; it's not much, but it's enough! There are several ways to incorporate it into recipes, but we like adding it to the oil phase before heating it.
Can I make a cream without a mini-whisk, blender/precision scale/thermometer?
No! As with many disciplines, you must have the right tools if you want to achieve a good result. Moisturizing cream recipes require precision and accuracy.
How long does a cream last?
If you followed the recipe to the letter, your cream can last a good 6 months.
To stack the odds in your favor, make sure to store it in a dry place at room temperature, away from direct sunlight. You can opt for a pump container to reduce contact between your hands and the product. If you use a jar, you can scoop the cream out with a small spatula or well-washed and dried hands.
How do I know if my cream has gone bad?
If your cream changes color, texture, or odor rapidly, it is best to throw it away.
Do you see a thin film of oil on the surface of the cream? Don't panic: stir it to blend it back in. However, if you notice a quantity of water at the bottom of the container, the emulsion failed and your cream is at risk of contamination. We recommend throwing it away.
Is the cream becoming "foamy" like whipped cream? Trash! If it develops black spots, trash! If it smells like old socks, you guessed it… trash!
