Face cream for all skin types - orange blossom
Marie
This light base cream is versatile and suited for the face AND the body. As with everything, you can vary the hydrosols and oils to personalize it. We love it for its velvety, non-greasy finish, its fast absorption and its ability to preserve skin hydration. Once you try it, there's no going back!
- Marie
Level
Advanced
Preparation
45 min
Contains
100 ml
Conservation
6 to 12 months
Ingredients
Phase A: heated oil phase
- 16 g of organic vegetable oil(s) of your choice (I chose a blend of camelina, sunflower and hemp) (You can also opt for a maceration!)
- 8 g of organic mango butter (We love it for its dry finish, but you can choose the vegetable butter of your choice. )
- 5 g of Eco emulsifier (Our favorite, free of palm oil derivatives. Very rare in the world of emulsifiers!)
Phase B: heated water phase
- 74 g of organic orange blossom hydrosol (Or Damask rose, lavender, etc... or a blend!)
- 1 g of vegetable glycerin
Phase C: cooling phase
- 0.25 g of organic true lavender essential oil (Lavandula officinalis)
- 0.25 g of organic Ho wood essential oil (Cinnamomum camphora linalooliferum)
- 0.1 g of vitamin E
- 0.9 g of Eco preservative
Equipment
- precision scale 0.01 g
- digital thermometer
- two heat-resistant containers (e.g., Pyrex cup)
- small spatula or rubber spatula, and fork
- mini electric whisk or immersion blender
- pot or large pan for a double boiler
- 100 ml amber glass jar, or
- 50 ml pump bottle
Full of willpower, but too busy? We have something for you.
Preparation steps
If this is your first cream recipe, take the time to read the article by clicking the link above.
1. With 70% alcohol, disinfect everything: work surface, tools and containers involved in the making.
2. Weigh the ingredients of the oil phase (A) in a heat-resistant container.
3. Weigh the ingredients of the water phase (B) in the other heat-resistant container.
4. Place both containers in two double boilers (or a single one if the pot is big enough), with enough water to come above the height of the ingredients. The idea is to put enough to heat evenly and not have to keep adding more as it evaporates. Be careful not to get water into the ingredients! We recommend placing the containers on a folded cloth at the bottom of the pot(s) to keep them stable and avoid splashes. Place a lid, without screwing it on, on the jar containing the water phase to reach the right temperature faster and to prevent evaporation.
5. Heat over low heat until both phases reach 85°C (185°F). Careful, this step is important for the stability of the emulsion. The Eco emulsifier must be heated to this temperature for optimal performance.
6. Once the temperature is reached, remove the containers from the double boiler(s).
7. Pour the water phase (B) into the oil phase (A). First mix the two phases with a spatula or fork (disinfected beforehand!). Then use the mini electric whisk (with the emulsifying attachment, the one that looks like a small metal wheel) to emulsify the cream, starting with short pulses (otherwise it'll fly everywhere). Mix for about 2-3 minutes. No more.
You must not whip this emulsifier too long. Whipping too much is even counterproductive. At this stage, the result will be liquid, a bit like milk. That's NORMAL.
8. Cooling phase: the longest step of the making! Let it cool slowly, while gently and regularly stirring with a fork.
Do NOT use the mini electric whisk for cooling. Although some people use an ice bath to cool their cream faster, we don't recommend it. Temperature shocks aren't good for the stability of an emulsion.
9. Bring the temperature down to 35-40°C (95-104°F) while stirring constantly, but gently so as not to get air into the cream.
10. Add the ingredients of phase C one by one, mixing with the fork each time.
11. Transfer the cream to its jar and let it settle for about fifteen minutes before closing. Note that it can take up to 24 hours to reach its final texture. It may be fluid at first!
12. Do a little happy dance, because you've just made your own natural, palm-oil-free cream! Yay!
Store your cream at room temperature, in an airtight container, away from light. If you disinfected everything well and followed all the steps, and you store and use your cream properly (without introducing water or contaminants), it will keep for several months!
How to use it
Apply to clean, dry skin, morning and/or evening.
We have something for you...
Making a cream a bit too intense for you? Not there yet? No worries: check out our two exclusive care creams, the Chamomile Face Cream - sensitive and normal skin and the Marshmallow Face Cream - dry skin in our shop, for a ready-to-use version.
