Sea buckthorn facial cream for mature skin
Les Mauvaises Herbes
This cream, whose shade recalls a ripe mango, owes its color to sea buckthorn oil, well known for its regenerating and soothing effect, on top of being rich in carotenoids and other antioxidants that help counter the harmful effects of the sun. Combined here with geranium, rockrose and ylang-ylang essential oils, it's quite the cocktail for mature skin!
Level
Advanced
Preparation
45 minutes
Contains
50 ml
Conservation
6 to 12 months
Ingredients
Phase A: heated oil phase
- 10 g of argan oil
- 1.5 g of sea buckthorn oil
- 2.8 g of Eco emulsifier
Phase B: heated water phase
- 32.5 g of witch hazel hydrosol
- 2 g of vegetable glycerin
Phase C: cooling phase
- 0.2 g of vitamin E
- 0.4 g of Eco preservative
- 0.2 g of rose geranium essential oil (Pelargonium graveolens)
- 0.2 g of rockrose essential oil (Cistus ladaniferus)
- 0.1 g of whole ylang-ylang essential oil (Cananga odorata)
Equipment
- precision scale 0.01 g
- digital thermometer
- two heat-resistant containers (e.g., Pyrex cup)
- small spatula or rubber spatula, and fork
- mini electric whisk
- pot or large pan for a double boiler
- 50 ml pump bottle, or
- 50 ml amber glass jar
Preparation steps
Before diving into making moisturizing cream, we invite you to read the associated article by clicking the link above.
1. With 70% alcohol, disinfect everything: work surface, tools and containers involved in the making. EVERYTHING.
2. Weigh the ingredients of the oil phase (A) in a heat-resistant container.
3. Weigh the ingredients of the water phase (B) in the other heat-resistant container.
4. Place both containers in a small pot to make a double boiler, with enough water to come above the level of the ingredients in their containers. If the jars are unstable, you can put a cloth underneath or between the containers to keep them steady. We recommend putting a lid (unscrewed) on the water phase container to prevent evaporation of the liquid and to heat the contents faster.
5. Heat over low heat until both phases reach 85°C (185°F).
6. Once the temperature is reached, remove the containers from the double boiler(s).
7. Pour the water phase (B) into the oil phase (A). First mix the two phases with a spatula or fork. Then use the mini electric whisk (with the emulsifying attachment, the small metal wheel) to emulsify the cream for 2 to 3 minutes. No more.
8. Stir the emulsion regularly until the temperature drops to 35-40°C (94-104°F), mixing constantly, but gently so as not to get air into the cream.
9. Add the ingredients of the cooling phase (C) one by one, mixing each time.
10. Transfer the cream to its jar and let it settle for about fifteen minutes before closing.
Store your cream at room temperature, in an airtight container, away from light.
Update: we reduced the amount of sea buckthorn oil and increased the amount of argan oil to make the cream less pigmented.
How to use it
Apply a small amount of cream once or twice a day to the skin of the face.
Store in an amber jar away from light and temperature changes.
