Borage eczema cream
Les Mauvaises Herbes
This rich, nourishing cream showcases borage oil, which helps skin preserve its hydration, an absolutely essential element for thirsty eczema-prone skin!
Level
Advanced
Preparation
30 min
Contains
100 ml
Conservation
6 to 12 months
Ingredients
Oil phase
- 25 g of borage oil
- 5 g of Eco emulsifier
Water phase
- 64.5 g of distilled water (Which you can find at pharmacies, and sometimes even at grocery stores!)
- 2 g of vegetable glycerin
Cooling phase
- 0.5 g of vitamin E
- 1 g of Eco preservative
Equipment
- precision scale 0.01 g
- digital thermometer
- 2 heat-resistant containers (e.g., Pyrex cup)
- small spatula or rubber spatula, and fork
- mini electric whisk or immersion blender
- pot or large pan for a double boiler
- 100 ml amber glass jar or 125 ml “treatment pump” bottle
- 70% isopropyl alcohol
Preparation steps
Not yet a pro at homemade moisturizing creams? You will be soon! Check out the associated article by clicking the link above. Don't be intimidated. It's much easier than it looks!
The TARE button: when weighing your ingredients, don't forget to press the “tare” button after putting your container on the scale, then after each ingredient you add to your mixture, to reset everything to 0 each time.
1. With 70% alcohol, disinfect everything: work surface, tools and containers involved in the making. EVERYTHING.
2. Weigh the ingredients of the oil phase in a heat-resistant container (e.g., Pyrex cup).
3. Weigh the ingredients of the water phase in the other heat-resistant container.
4. Place both containers in two double boilers (or just one if the pot is big enough), with enough water to come above the height of the ingredients. We recommend placing the containers on a folded cloth at the bottom of the pot(s) to keep them stable and avoid splashes. As for the water, the idea is to put enough to heat evenly and not have to keep adding more as it evaporates. Be careful not to get water from the pot into the ingredients!
5. Heat over medium heat until both phases reach 85°C. Careful, this step is important for the stability of the emulsion. The Eco emulsifier must be heated to this temperature for optimal performance. See the FAQ section if you have trouble reaching this temperature.
6. Once the temperature is reached, remove the containers from the double boiler(s).
7. Pour the water phase into the oil phase. First mix the two phases with a spatula or fork (disinfected beforehand!). Then use the mini electric whisk (with the emulsifying attachment, the one that looks like a small metal wheel) to emulsify the cream, starting with short pulses (otherwise it'll fly everywhere). Mix for about 2-3 minutes. No more.
You must not whip this emulsifier too long. Whipping too much is even counterproductive. At this stage, the result will be liquid, a bit like milk. That's NORMAL.
8. Cooling phase: the longest step of the making! Let it cool slowly, while gently and regularly stirring with a fork.
Do NOT use the mini electric whisk for cooling. Although some people use an ice bath to cool their cream faster, we don't recommend it. Temperature shocks aren't good for the stability of an emulsion.
This is when the cream will slowly start to thicken.
9. Bring the temperature down to 35-40°C while stirring constantly, but gently so as not to get air into the cream.
10. Add the ingredients of the cooling phase one by one, mixing with the fork each time.
11. Transfer the cream to its jar and let it settle for about fifteen minutes before closing. Note that it can take up to 24 hours to reach its final texture. It may be fluid at first!
12. Do a little happy dance, because you've just made your own cream and you have a natural, effective solution to treat your eczema!
Store your cream at room temperature, in an airtight container, away from light. If you disinfected everything well and followed all the steps, and you store and use your cream properly (without introducing water or contaminants), it will keep for several months!
How to use it
Apply as needed!
We recommend applying it right out of the bath or shower to keep as much water as possible in the epidermis.
Why borage oil?
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of cells of the epidermis. These cells are bound together by a mix of lipid substances, 50% of which are ceramides. Their role is to retain skin hydration by preventing transepidermal water loss. In people with eczema, the skin is extremely dry because the skin barrier is compromised; the skin is unable to stay hydrated. Borage oil, thanks to its linoleic acid content, helps restore the skin barrier's integrity and reduce flare-ups.
Check out the FAQ at the bottom of this page to learn more about other ingredients you could add to this recipe and to answer questions you might have.
