Posted by Les Mauvaises Herbes
A plant from ancient Abyssinia (that’s the old historical name for Ethiopia). An oil often compared to a silicone… plant-based version. Plus a texture that can seem contradictory: dry. Yes, it’s a dry oil, even though an oil is supposed to be oily.
In this chronicle, we introduce you to Abyssinian oil: what’s in it, why it glides the way it does, and what everyday use and science have to say about it.
And why we like it enough to sell it and to have put it in our 5-oil anti-aging face serum.
First off, what is Abyssinian oil?
Abyssinian oil comes from the seeds of Crambe abyssinica, a plant in the mustard and cabbage family (the Brassicaceae). It’s native to Ethiopia, the former Abyssinia, and to the Mediterranean region, depending on the source. Hence its name, and its little nickname, “Abyssinian mustard.”
Its seeds are rich in oil, which is obtained by cold pressing. Ours comes from Canada 🇨🇦.
A surprising little detail: before making its way into our bathrooms, this plant is mostly grown for industry. Its oil is used as a lubricant, and a derivative of its main fatty acid serves as a slip agent in plastics. Quite the unexpected career path, let’s say!
What’s in it
A vegetable oil is mostly fatty acids. And there are several types of fatty acids.
In Abyssinian oil, one fatty acid dominates: erucic acid, which makes up roughly 50 to 60% of the oil depending on the source. The rest is mostly oleic acid (the same one found in olive oil), with a little linoleic acid and linolenic acid (it looks like the same word twice, but no, read again, they really are two different things haha).
Erucic acid is a long chain of 22 carbons with a single double bond. For comparison, oleic acid has 18 carbons. The longer and less unsaturated the chain, the more the oil resists oxidation: Abyssinian oil is described as a stable oil.
You’ll often read that it’s the oil richest in erucic acid. More precisely, it’s the richest among plants grown for their oil. Meaning some plants contain more, like nasturtium oil, but that’s not a plant grown on a large scale. But whatever: it’s among the richest.
Why do we say it’s dry?
“Dry” describes a feeling: an oil that spreads easily, is absorbed quickly and leaves little shiny film. Not the kind you can still feel on your skin an hour later. It doesn’t dry out your skin, let’s be clear.
The long chain of erucic acid is thought to play a part, and that’s why it’s sometimes compared, for the feel, to a plant-based silicone.
Here, we love it for that. A light, velvety feel that leaves skin soft without making it shiny. It’s also used in hair care, where it forms a very thin film.
Abyssinian oil: a possible “VIP bouncer” for active ingredients?
Skin has a remarkably effective barrier: the stratum corneum, whose lipids are organized in a way that limits the passage of many molecules. Some fatty acids can temporarily disrupt this organization and thereby favor the passage of certain ingredients.
Oleic acid, for example, has been studied for this effect. And what makes Abyssinian oil particularly interesting is that it’s rich in erucic acid, a long-chain fatty acid that has also been the subject of studies on skin penetration. Experimental results suggest that this acid can promote the distribution of certain molecules in the skin.
So could Abyssinian oil play the role of a VIP bouncer, making it easier for certain active ingredients to get through? The hypothesis is very plausible, considering that Abyssinian oil is made mostly of erucic acid.
How to use it, and where to put it
Our Abyssinian oil is a pure 55 ml vegetable oil, cold-pressed, grown in Canada, with a delicate plant scent.
You can start with a few drops on slightly damp skin, then adjust to the feel you’re after. The idea is to use enough to make application easier, without necessarily leaving a shiny layer.
A few ways to work it into your routine:
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On your face: apply a few drops and see how your skin reacts. A small amount is often enough to start.
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With your cream: you can mix one drop into your dose of cream in your hand to change the slip and the finish. It mostly changes the application experience; it’s not a guarantee of increased effectiveness.
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On the ends of your hair: a small amount can help smooth their appearance and give them a softer finish.
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On cuticles: a few drops to soften their appearance and make massaging easier.
As with any new cosmetic ingredient, start with a small amount and test it on a small area. Avoid experimenting with a new pure oil on skin that’s already irritated or damaged.
You can get our pure Abyssinian oil, but you’ll also find it in our 5-oil anti-aging serum.
Frequently asked questions
“Won’t a dry oil dry out my skin?”
No. “Dry” describes the feel: an oil that absorbs quickly and doesn’t leave a shiny film. It’s still an oil.
“What’s the difference with argan oil?”
We sometimes call it our Canadian argan, because it holds the same place in a routine: a light, silky oil. But the two aren’t made the same way. Argan oil is mostly rich in oleic and linoleic acids. Abyssinian oil, on the other hand, is dominated by erucic acid. We explain it all in our article on argan oil right here.
“Is it comedogenic?”
It’s described as light, and some sources call it low in comedogenicity. That said, no published test settles the question: if your skin is prone to blemishes, start with a small area.
“Can I eat it?”
No. It’s a cosmetic oil, not a food oil. Oils very rich in erucic acid are in fact limited in food.
“Is it safe?”
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel concludes that the plant-derived oils it evaluated, including Abyssinian oil, are safe as used in cosmetics. That doesn’t stop anyone from reacting: always do a patch test in the crook of your elbow before using it.
“I have sensitive or irritated skin. Can I try it?”
Start slowly, with a few drops, and listen to your skin. Some formulators advise avoiding the pure oil on a damaged skin barrier. If your skin is really irritated, talk to a healthcare professional first.
To learn more
- Burnett C.L. et al. (2017). Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils. International Journal of Toxicology, 36(3, suppl.), 51S-129S.
- Naik A. et al. (1995). Mechanism of oleic acid-induced skin penetration enhancement in vivo in humans. Journal of Controlled Release, 37(3), 299-306.
- Crambe hispanica (synonym of Crambe abyssinica), PROTA entry, for the plant, its uses and the composition of the oil.
- Functional analysis of the omega-6 fatty acid desaturase (CaFAD2) gene family of the oil seed crop Crambe abyssinica. BMC Plant Biology, 2013, 13, 146.
- Use of FTIR for the determination of trierucin in high erucic acid oils. GCIRC Bulletin, no. 19, for the comparison with nasturtium oil.
- Abyssinian (Crambe) Seed Oil, monograph from Botanical Formulations (a formulation consulting company), for the feel and the precautions regarding the skin barrier.
- Our article Acne: our tips for reducing breakouts, for the definition of a dry oil.
