Posted by Les Mauvaises Herbes
Among the skin conditions we could all do without, acne is often at the top of the list! Acne is common during the teenage years and other times of hormonal fluctuation: puberty, pregnancy, premenstrual periods, perimenopause... But it can pop up at any time!
How does acne develop?
Acne starts with hyperseborrhea: excess production of sebum, a protective film made of lipid substances secreted by the sebaceous glands. Our skin needs sebum to keep it supple, to retain its hydration, and above all to protect it against harmful microorganisms. During hormonal changes, sebum production increases; the buildup of sebum and dead skin cells can clog skin pores. The presence of the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes also contributes to the development of pimples. Sebum trapped in the pores can also oxidize, causing comedones, also known as blackheads.
Here are our best tips for controlling breakouts and other unwelcome friends!
1. Cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser
When you have acne or oily skin, it's easy to fall into this trap: thinking the more sebum you remove, the more balanced your skin will be and the fewer breakouts you'll have. That's not necessarily true!
Our skin naturally secretes sebum to protect itself. Sebum, along with other watery substances produced by the skin, forms the hydrolipidic film, a thin protective layer that neutralizes bacteria and other harmful microorganisms. Sebum also helps keep skin supple and hydrated.
By using drying cleansers, scrubbing the skin aggressively, or cleansing your face too often, you create a new problem. By completely stripping away our precious hydrolipidic film, we signal to our skin that it needs to produce even more sebum! A vicious cycle sets in: skin becomes even oilier, we cleanse it even more... and so on!
It's better to cleanse skin with a gentle cleanser designed for the face, a konjac sponge, a vegetable oil, or a two-phase cleanser.
Also make sure everything that touches your face is clean: your sheets and pillowcase, your scarf, your toque or other hat, your hair, your hands... Wash all of that regularly; if sebum residue or bacteria are constantly in contact with your skin, your acne may persist despite your other good habits!
2. Spritz your face with a hydrosol
Hydrosols can prove useful, especially witch hazel and true lavender hydrosols, which have astringent (tighten tissue and pores), soothing (help reduce redness), and revitalizing (fade small imperfections and give skin a glow) properties. Choose witch hazel if your skin is congested, puffy, or your pores are very enlarged, and lavender if your skin shows redness or irritation.
3. Apply a (well-chosen!) vegetable oil
It might seem counterproductive to put oil on your face when you have oily skin, but an oil (well-chosen, of course!) can help control sebum production, nourish, and protect the skin. Always choose non-comedogenic oils that absorb quickly into the skin so it doesn't stay shiny.
Jojoba oil is known for its ability to balance sebum production.
Black seed oil is a great anti-acne ally thanks to its antibacterial properties. It can be irritating if too concentrated, so it's recommended to limit its concentration to 10% for facial care.
Vegetable squalane and Abyssinian oil are dry oils, meaning they absorb into the skin quickly and don't leave it oily and shiny, a must for combination and oily skin!
These oils can be incorporated into a daily serum recipe or a moisturizing cream recipe. You can also apply them individually or mix them together!
4. Keep your skin hydrated
Dehydrated skin, just like skin dried out by cleansing products, can start secreting excess sebum. All skin types can become dehydrated, even combination, oily, or acne-prone skin!
There's an important difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin. Dry skin lacks oil, often because it doesn't produce enough sebum. Dehydrated skin lacks water, due to a lack of internal or external hydration, or a damaged skin barrier.
The skin barrier is a thin layer of cells found on the surface of our skin. Its cells are bound together by lipids, and this layer needs to stay watertight to prevent water from evaporating out of our skin.
How do you know if your skin is dehydrated? Look for these signs:
– skin looks dull and develops premature wrinkles and fine lines,
– after cleansing, skin feels dry and tight, then becomes oily again very quickly,
– when gently pinched, skin has trouble bouncing back to its original shape.
What to do?
Start by hydrating your skin from the inside by drinking plenty of water. Hydrate the skin from the outside by applying products containing plenty of water, like toners, hydrosols, aloe juice, or gel.
Then, use products containing humectants, substances that attract and retain water in tissue. In this category of ingredients, you'll find vegetable glycerin, aloe, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol, and panthenol.
Bakuchiol is a plant extract that has proven effective against pimples and blackheads by refining skin pores and through its antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Try our express bakuchiol toner recipe, it contains a hydrosol (which you can choose based on your needs), glycerin, and bakuchiol.
To nourish the skin barrier and seal in hydration from moisturizing products, apply a moisturizing cream, an oil, or an oil serum.
Bakuchiol express tonic
This toner is the perfect ally for faces seeking softness and renewal! A simple and luminous recipe thanks to the ingredients it contains: orange blossom, bakuchiol & vegetable glycerin. A gentle blend that soothes, tones, stimulates cell regeneration, and preserves hydration, for supple, soft, and radiant skin.
Préparation
10 min
Conservation
12 mois
Rendement
100 ml
5. Harness the power of essential oils
To help curb bacteria growth, several essential oils can be beneficial! Among our favourites: tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia), lemon (Citrus limonum)*, bergamot (Citrus bergamia)*, ho wood (Cinnamomum camphora linaloliferum), and spike lavender (Lavandula latifolia).
To avoid irritating the skin, dilute them to a maximum concentration of 1% in your serum, an oil, or a moisturizing cream. That said, you can apply a pure essential oil to a small area, like a pimple, on a one-off basis. Just avoid slathering your whole face with overly concentrated essential oils!
For a quick skin oil recipe, combine in a 50 ml dropper bottle:
25 ml jojoba oil
25 ml vegetable squalane
15 drops tea tree essential oil
* Lemon and bergamot essential oils are photosensitizing, so use them at night only to avoid exposing the skin to the sun after applying.
Spot treatment roll-on with essential oils
Ahhh, pimples. Even as adults, they can plague us. 🙋♀️ #36goingon14 haha! Here's a recipe that will keep those unwelcome guests away from your pretty face. I hope you like it! Don't have all these essential oils? Use more of one or the other, but respect the essential oil to hemp oil ratio.
- Mariane
Préparation
5 min
Conservation
12 mois et +
Rendement
environ 10 ml
Acne cream - black seed and witch hazel
This ultra-light face cream combines fabulous ingredients with sebum-regulating, astringent, purifying and antibacterial properties to combat acne breakouts. Another reason to make this recipe right away: it smells like a little lemon cake!
Préparation
30 min
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
50 g
6. Draw out impurities with a clay mask
Once a week or every two weeks, treat your skin to a clay mask! Green clay is especially well-suited to oily skin. Mix the clay with water and a small amount of vegetable oil to make a paste to apply to your whole face. Leave the mask on for about 15 minutes, and above all, don't let it dry out completely; moisten it as needed.
7. Gently exfoliate your skin
To remove the dead skin cells that clog pores and can cause breakouts, you can exfoliate your skin with gentle, non-abrasive powders, like colloidal oatmeal, or an exfoliant containing enzymes or mild acids. Start by exfoliating your skin once a week, and you can increase to twice a week if your skin responds well. Remember to always moisturize your skin well after exfoliating!
Purifying mask for combination or oily skin
Combination, oily skin? These skin types can be a bit demanding. In addition to a good, deep daily cleansing, there's nothing better than a bi-monthly mask with unclogging ingredients like bentonite clay and activated charcoal. Let's get purifying!
Préparation
5 min
Conservation
utilisation immédiate
Rendement
1 masque
8. Magic trick: mattifying powder
As needed during the day, you can apply a mattifying powder, which helps absorb excess sebum, reduce shine, and prevent new breakouts!
Mattifying powder with pink clay
Super practical for setting makeup or for avoiding the shiny skin effect, especially after applying a serum. A very simple recipe that will only require you to take the time to adjust the shade to your skin tone.
Préparation
5 min
Conservation
Illimitée
Rendement
env. 50 ml
9. Give it time
Skin takes about 40 days to fully regenerate, and changing your hygiene and skincare habits takes an adjustment period. So don't get discouraged if the routine you've put in place doesn't give instant results!
Bonus info: What is "maskne"?
With the COVID-19 pandemic, we had to face several changes to our lifestyle habits, including wearing face coverings. Some people kept up this habit as a precaution when sick, others must wear a mask because of their job, or because they're immunocompromised.
We often notice its impact on skin condition; breakouts appear on the areas covered by the mask: cheeks, nose, and chin. There's even a portmanteau for this phenomenon: "maskne," a blend of mask and acne.
Mask and acne: why?
First, here's a bit of explanation about what causes these skin problems. Three things happen when wearing a mask:
1. Friction from the fabric against the skin tends to irritate it and cause redness and inflammation.
2. The mask traps exhaled air, sweat, sebum, heat, and moisture. A perfect cocktail for bacteria growth!
3. Natural skin shedding is slowed down. While skin normally "exfoliates" and renews itself, wearing a mask leads to a buildup of cells that clog pores and cause inflammation.
All these factors are prone to causing pimples, bumps, or blackheads, even in people who've never had these issues in the past.
Before turning to medicated creams and expensive aesthetic treatments to tame your maskne, here are a few tips to improve the appearance of your face and its overall well-being. It's up to you to figure out what works for your skin and add it to your body care routine!
5 tips for beating maskne
1. Clean your face covering well
Very important: avoid wearing the same face covering two days in a row without cleaning it. Wash with hot water to remove as much bacteria as possible, and use a mild soap to avoid irritating your skin further, like a laundry soap for sensitive skin or a fragrance-free liquid Castile soap.
We prefer face coverings made with natural fabrics rather than synthetic ones. Skip the nylon and rayon: they don't breathe!
2. Cleanse your face morning and night
Facial skin should be clean before being covered by a face covering. A quick morning cleanse is a must. The idea is to treat your facial skin as gently as possible! Follow the tips given at the start of this article.
3. Remove dead skin cells
To prevent pores from clogging (one of the causes of maskne), it's important to remove dead skin cells with exfoliation once or twice a week. Always be gentle!
4. Massage your face
To stimulate blood circulation and natural skin renewal, massage your face using gentle techniques. At Les Mauvaises Herbes, we're fans of facial massages using a gua sha stone, an ancient Chinese technique that involves massaging the face with a flat stone to stimulate blood and lymphatic circulation and give the face a glow. We've noticed our skin pores becoming finer, and sebum production normalizing, meaning fewer pimples and blackheads, more toned tissue, and a reduced appearance of fine lines. Try it, you'll love it!
5. Let your skin breathe
Whenever possible, let your skin breathe by removing your face covering if the situation allows: while walking outside, in the car, at home... It's also important to carry a spare face covering to swap in after getting hot or exercising. A damp mask creates an environment that's ripe for bacteria growth, on top of being less effective!
All the anti-acne tips we shared earlier also apply to breakouts caused by masks! Don't hesitate to try several tricks to find what works for your skin!
