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Tout ce que tu dois savoir sur le bakuchiol
Posted by Les Mauvaises Herbes

Everything you need to know about bakuchiol

You've heard about bakuchiol, an extraordinary plant extract for facial care, and you're wondering if it really lives up to the hype? Does it really reduce the look of wrinkles, fine lines, redness, blackheads, blemishes AND dark spots? All that WITHOUT irritating the skin? Is that even possible? Where's the catch??

Well, after plenty of research, reading, and testing on our own faces, bakuchiol turns out to be pretty darn close to a miracle!

Let us explain why!

First off, what is bakuchiol?

We'll admit, it's got a name that's a bit of a mouthful! Bakuchiol is actually the name of a molecule extracted from the seed of a plant well known in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine: babchi (Psoralea corylifolia L.), also occasionally called bakuchi.

On the market, you can find babchi oil, extracted from babchi seeds, which naturally contains a small amount of bakuchiol. For even more noticeable results, we offer a concentrated bakuchiol extract to add to your skincare!

Botanical illustration of babchi
super old illustration of babchi (Psoralea corylifolia L.)

How does bakuchiol work?

Bakuchiol has gained popularity given its effects, which are very similar to those of retinol, a popular active ingredient in the cosmetics world that unfortunately comes with a few downsides.

So what exactly is wrong with retinol?

Retinol is an excellent active ingredient for stimulating the skin's natural collagen production, but it has some significant drawbacks.

First, it tends to irritate the skin if used at too high a concentration; you have to start using it with heavily diluted products before gradually increasing the dosage, and make sure the skin is very well hydrated. Some people with particularly sensitive skin tolerate retinol poorly, even at very low percentages.

What's more, retinol makes skin photosensitive (sensitive to sunlight), increasing the risk of burns and hyperpigmentation if applied before sun exposure. So you can only apply products containing it at night.

Luckily, bakuchiol has none of these downsides! Although bakuchiol has properties very similar to retinol, its molecular structure is completely different. It has no photosensitizing effect on the skin and is very well tolerated, even by sensitive skin. There's a small risk of allergy, as with any substance; however, know that reported cases have been very rare so far. Yay!

A summary of bakuchiol's many benefits

Wrinkles, fine lines, mature skin: bakuchiol stimulates the skin's natural production of collagen and elastin (while also slowing their breakdown) and speeds up cell renewal, making the skin firmer, smoother, softer, and more even-looking. Starting around age 25, collagen production gradually decreases, which causes wrinkles and fine lines to appear. This process is normal and natural, but bakuchiol helps preserve the skin's elasticity and firmness despite the passage of time!

Protection: through its antioxidant effect, bakuchiol protects the skin against oxidative stress caused by pollution and sun exposure, which slows down skin aging.

Anti-acne: bakuchiol helps reduce acne breakouts in several ways: by controlling Cutibacterium acnes populations (the bacteria that cause pimples), by regulating sebum production, and by reducing pore size. Its antioxidant properties also reduce the appearance of blackheads and help prevent them from forming.

Dark spots: bakuchiol fades and prevents dark spots by reducing melanin production, by preventing existing melanin pigments from spreading to the skin's surface, and by reducing the inflammation that sometimes causes hyperpigmentation.

Dry or dehydrated skin: it increases hydration in the upper layers of the skin by supporting the integrity of the skin barrier.

Pregnancy & breastfeeding: bakuchiol can be safely used during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It's even recommended to prevent melasma (pregnancy mask)!

How to use it?

The bakuchiol we offer is a concentrated extract; it's not a ready-to-use face serum, nor is it whole babchi oil.

So you can't apply it to your face without diluting it. Like essential oils and other highly concentrated actives, it's an ingredient, not a finished product, and it needs to be used carefully.

Good news! Since it's an ingredient that's usually added at the end of the manufacturing process, you can add it to a store-bought cream or toner! Ideal for people who aren't into DIY!

Otherwise, you can simply add bakuchiol to a cream, toner, or gel recipe by measuring it in milliliters or grams following the dilution recommendations below.

You can apply it once or twice a day. That said, we recommend not layering several products that contain bakuchiol, for example a bakuchiol toner, plus a bakuchiol serum, plus a bakuchiol cream... That starts to add up! You can just slip it into one step of your routine!

Dilution

Our bakuchiol extract is water-soluble, meaning it dilutes in water or in ingredients or preparations that contain water, like hydrosols (floral waters), aloe juice or gel, and emulsions (like moisturizing cream). It won't dilute in an oil serum, a body butter, or any other product made only of vegetable oils and butters.

Recommended bakuchiol concentrations vary depending on the part of the body where you want to use it.

Eye area: 0.1% to 0.5%
Face:
0.5% to 1%
Body:
1% to 3%

Good to know:
1 ml of bakuchiol = 1 g of bakuchiol = 32 drops


So yes, this calls for a bit of math! But as an example, we've calculated for you the amount in grams and drops to add to a 100 ml jar of cream (or other cosmetic product), based on the desired concentration.

For 100 ml:
0.1% = 0.1 g or 3.2 drops (round to 3 drops)
0.25% = 0.25 g or 8 drops
0.5% = 0.5 g or 16 drops
1% = 1 g or 32 drops
2% = 2 g or 64 drops
3% = 3 g or 96 drops

*** Use our calculator to find out how many drops to add to your product! ***

We always recommend starting with the minimum dosage to see how your skin reacts. It's possible the smallest recommended dosage is the ideal amount for your skin; that way you'll avoid the risk of irritation caused by a product that's too concentrated for your skin's tolerance.


It's recommended to test the product you've added bakuchiol to on the inside of your elbow before using it, to make sure your skin doesn't show signs of sensitivity or allergy to this botanical extract. Don't do this test with pure, undiluted bakuchiol!

A few ideas for adding bakuchiol to your routine

Moisturizing cream: add bakuchiol extract to a Les Mauvaises Herbes moisturizing cream!

🌱 Chamomile face cream (sensitive & normal skin) | 55 ml size:

  • 0.5% dosage: 0.275 g or 8.8 drops (round to 9 drops)
  • 1% dosage: 0.55 g or 17.6 drops (18 drops)

🌱 Marshmallow face cream (dry skin) | 55 ml size:

  • 0.5% dosage: 0.275 g or 8.8 drops (9 drops)
  • 1% dosage: 0.55 g or 17.6 drops (18 drops)

🌱 Oat moisturizing cream – body | 240 ml size:

  • 1% dosage: 2.4 g or 76.8 drops (77 drops)
  • 2% dosage: 4.8 g or 153.6 drops (154 drops)
  • 3% dosage: 7.2 g or 230.4 drops (230 drops)

🌱 Repairing cream – hands & feet | 55 ml size:

  • 1% dosage: 0.55 g or 17.6 drops (18 drops)
  • 2% dosage: 1.1 g or 35.2 drops (35 drops)
  • 3% dosage: 1.65 g or 52.8 drops (53 drops)

Homemade cream: if you're already skilled at making cream (or want to give it a try), you can add bakuchiol to your recipe during the cooling phase.

Facial toner: bakuchiol is a great addition to a hydrosol or facial toner. You can take inspiration from our fabulous express bakuchiol toner recipe!

Two-phase serum: serums combining an oil phase and a water phase, like our gentle two-phase chamomile & aloe face serum, are perfect carriers for bakuchiol.

You can use a product containing bakuchiol in the morning, at night, or both. There's no point in layering several products containing bakuchiol, for example a bakuchiol toner plus a bakuchiol serum plus a bakuchiol cream! We recommend adding it to just one product in your routine.

For more ideas, check out our article 10 products to add bakuchiol to!

FAQ

"Can I add it to the moisturizer I already have at home?"

If the cream contains water or a water phase, you can! How do you know if your cream contains water? Check the ingredients! If you see aqua or water, you're good to go!


"Can I add it to a sunscreen?"


This isn't recommended! A sunscreen is formulated very precisely to provide the protection intended, so we try not to alter its composition.


"I added bakuchiol extract to an oil serum. Am I going to die?"


No, you're not going to die! Oil is really not a good medium for diluting bakuchiol extract, but you can still use your serum by shaking it vigorously before applying. If you notice your skin reacting negatively, stop using it.


"Can I put a drop of bakuchiol in my cream every time I use it?"

No. A drop of bakuchiol in every "portion" of cream goes way over the maximum dosage! You need to dilute it according to the recommendations given earlier in this article.


"I already put pure bakuchiol all over my face and it's going fine!"

It's going fine... for now! By applying the extract directly to your skin, or too concentrated, you risk developing long-term sensitivity, or even an irreversible allergy. Cosmetic ingredients should always be used according to the recommendations.


"Can I add bakuchiol to a product that already contains X ingredient?"

Bakuchiol is compatible with other ingredients. So there's no problem mixing it with a product that already contains active cosmetic ingredients.


"Can I use bakuchiol if I have sensitive skin, couperose, rosacea...?"

Yes! There are no contraindications to using bakuchiol, unless you have a serious skin condition. In that case, check with a dermatologist.

Argan and Bakuchiol Face Cream

Argan and Bakuchiol Face Cream

Bakuchiol and argan come together in this face cream, ideal for... all skin types! Its ingredients work to deeply moisturize, firm, reduce signs of aging, regulate sebum production, and protect against external aggressors. Whether your skin is dry, mature, or oily, infuse it with radiance and renewal thanks to this luxurious treatment... made by your own hands.
Préparation 45 minutes
Conservation 6 à 12 mois
Rendement environ 50 ml
Voir la recette
Bakuchiol express tonic

Bakuchiol express tonic

This toner is the perfect ally for faces seeking softness and renewal! A simple and luminous recipe thanks to the ingredients it contains: orange blossom, bakuchiol & vegetable glycerin. A gentle blend that soothes, tones, stimulates cell regeneration, and preserves hydration, for supple, soft, and radiant skin.
Préparation 10 min
Conservation 12 mois
Rendement 100 ml
Voir la recette
Luxury bakuchiol hand cream

Luxury bakuchiol hand cream

Our hands do so much for us, in addition to being constantly exposed to the sun, household products, pollution… The ingredients in this luxurious cream help prevent premature skin aging and reduce the appearance of dark spots, while deeply hydrating.
Préparation 45 minutes
Conservation 6 mois à 1 an
Rendement environ 100 ml
Voir la recette
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