Posted by Les Mauvaises Herbes
Squalane is getting more and more popular in artisanal and professional cosmetics, and for good reason! This little oil can work (metaphorical) miracles for the health of your skin and hair. Keep reading to find out: squalane, what's the deal?
Squalane vs squalene, what's the difference?
We can't talk about squalane without first talking about squalene!
Squalene is a natural substance found in plants and in the skin and other organs of certain animals. In humans, squalene is found in the skin and in sebum, where it plays a protective and lubricating role.
Its name comes from the Latin squalus, meaning "shark"; the molecule was named this way when squalene was first discovered in the liver of a shark, the spiny dogfish (Squalus mitsukurii) (yes, that's a shark species!).
Squalane is a derivative of squalene. Squalene has nice cosmetic properties, but it doesn't lend itself well to making beauty products because it's a molecule that's very fragile when it comes to oxidation. It goes rancid faster than you can say spiny dogfish! To make it more stable and resistant, it undergoes a hydrogenation process, a safe, solvent-free method that results in squalane.
Squalane can be derived from the squalene of several plants (or from shark liver, yikes!); the one we offer in our shop comes from olives.
The characteristics and properties of squalane
1. It's an outstanding emollient
One of squalane's most interesting properties is its emollient ability: it softens and smooths the skin like nothing else! It's an ideal ingredient for soothing dry, dehydrated skin, or skin roughened by the environment. It helps calm irritation, inflammation, redness, and itching caused by dry skin.
2. It preserves skin hydration
Squalane has the property of nourishing the skin barrier, the layer of our skin responsible for retaining skin hydration. The skin barrier is the outermost layer of cells separating our skin from the outside environment. It's made up of cells bound together by fatty substances and must stay watertight to prevent the water contained in our skin from evaporating. Squalane can nourish the skin barrier to make it even more watertight!
3. It's loved by ALL skin types!
Even the most finicky and reactive skin! Since the squalane molecule is very similar to the squalene found in our sebum and skin, our skin recognizes it as natural and harmless.
Squalane's ability to nourish the skin barrier makes it a top-choice ingredient in products for eczema, and dry or dehydrated skin. It can be used in products for babies, children, and people with delicate skin. Its dry finish makes it ideal for oily or combination skin that shies away from overly rich formulas; on top of that, squalane has a very low comedogenic index and won't clog skin pores.
4. It has a super light, pleasant texture
You just need to place a drop of squalane on your skin to understand the appeal of this (almost) magical ingredient! Its texture is incredibly soft, silky, and pleasant to the touch. Squalane has great spreadability (we're not kidding, that's the real word for it!), meaning a small amount is enough to cover a large area of skin. Its fluidity makes it an excellent base for makeup and sun care products, or to lighten up a preparation made with richer, fattier oils. You can also make light, weightless moisturizing lotions by partly or fully replacing the oil phase of an emulsion with squalane.
5. It keeps for a very long time
It's undeniably a very rancidity-resistant ingredient which, when mixed with other more fragile oils, helps extend the shelf life of the blend.
Don't forget: even though squalane extends the shelf life of oils and other fats, it can't be used as a preservative in preparations that contain water. To prevent bacteria and mold from developing, we use Eco preservative.
6. It's amazing for hair care!
In hair care, squalane has a coating, smoothing, and protective effect; it reduces the appearance of split ends and gives hair a healthier-looking appearance. It's used in hair masks, serums, oil baths, shampoos, and conditioners.
So really, the question is: is there anything squalane can't do?
How to add squalane to your formulas?
Squalane behaves like a vegetable oil: it's oil-soluble and hydrophobic (it dissolves in oil and doesn't mix with water). You can therefore add it to oil-based preparations and to the oil phase of an emulsion, whether for the face, body, or hair. You can apply pure squalane directly on the skin, but its effect is still noticeable even when diluted in a recipe.
What products can you add squalane to?
- A lip balm or serum
- A nail and cuticle oil
- An oil serum for the face, body, or hair
- An emulsion (a cream or moisturizing lotion, for example), light or rich
- A conditioner, an oil bath, a serum, or a hair mask
Basically, you can add vegetable squalane to any product made with an oil! That said, we recommend saving squalane for products that stay on the skin, to really benefit from its properties, though nothing stops you from slipping a bit into a rinse-off product like a face cleanser or shampoo!
A few recipes that put squalane to good use!
Recette · Beginner
Serum for dry skin - squalane and chamomile
Here's the cocktail all dry skin dreams of! Sunflower oil deeply penetrates the skin to nourish the epidermis, squalane restores and nourishes the skin barrier, and the ceramides in jojoba oil protect against external aggressors. A touch of Roman chamomile is added to soothe irritation. Restored and hydrated skin!
Préparation10 min
Conservation12 months
Rendement30 ml
Recette · Advanced
Body Lotion - Squalane and Coconut
This very fluid & light moisturizing body lotion is ideal for summer and for those who aren't fans of ultra-rich creams! Made with vegetable squalane and fractionated coconut oil, this milk is emollient and leaves the skin supple and soft, while helping it retain its moisture.
Préparation45 minutes
Conservation6 months
Rendement250 ml
Recette · Beginner
Vitamin E repairing lip balm
This lip balm combines healing, protective, and restorative ingredients, such as beeswax, rosehip oil, and vitamin E, all to pamper your lips!
Préparation20 minutes
Conservation1 year
RendementAbout 30 ml
Recette · Advanced
Luxury bakuchiol hand cream
Our hands do so much for us, in addition to being constantly exposed to the sun, household products, pollution… The ingredients in this luxurious cream help prevent premature skin aging and reduce the appearance of dark spots, while deeply hydrating.
Préparation45 minutes
Conservation6 months to 1 year
Rendementabout 100 ml
Quick uses!
Apply a few drops of squalane to your face when you get out of the shower, or after applying a toner, to seal in hydration.
Add 2 droppers of squalane to a spoonful of your usual conditioner to make a nourishing mask for damp hair. Leave on for at least 20 minutes and wash your hair as usual.
Warm a few drops of squalane in your hands and massage into your hair ends for an instant smoothing, anti-split-ends effect.
Apply a few drops of squalane directly onto a patch of eczema or dry skin.
