Posted by Les Mauvaises Herbes
Coconut oil is definitely a must-have for making homemade cosmetics. It is one of those super ingredients that can be used (almost) everywhere. In addition to having multiple culinary uses, it can be used as a makeup remover, as a hair mask, and in our recipes for deodorants, body butters, face butters, scrubs, etc.
It is actually one of the first ingredients you add to your arsenal when you start out in the world of homemade cosmetics.
As you may have noticed, we offer two versions of coconut oil in our recipes and in our shop:
It can be confusing, as there are many different products/varieties of coconut oil on the market: solid, liquid, virgin, extra-virgin, deodorized, fractionated, caprylis, butter... Phew.
We are going to try to sort it all out!
Coconut butter or oil?
Coconut oil is extracted from the flesh and/or milk of the coconut. Since it contains a lot of saturated fat (about 90%, including 50% lauric acid), it becomes solid below 25°C, giving it the appearance of a vegetable butter, like shea butter. Even in its solid state, you only need to apply it to your skin to see that it melts quickly.
The important thing to remember: it is indeed an oil, not a butter. It is easy to be mistaken and call it "butter." Coconut butter does exist, but it is completely different: it is a solid paste made from the flesh of the whole coconut. You can even make it yourself by putting pieces of coconut into a food processor.
Coconut butter is used in cooking, but not in cosmetics. A bit like peanut butter. We can easily imagine using peanut oil in a cosmetic product, but "peanut" butter, not so much!
The multiple uses of coconut oil
There are many reasons why coconut oil is a staple in homemade cosmetics. First, it contains lauric acid, a good antibacterial agent, which makes it an ideal ingredient in deodorants and toothpastes. Be careful, however: since it melts above 25°C, you may sometimes need to keep certain cosmetics in the fridge during the summer.
Next, it is highly valued for nourishing the skin and soothing skin irritation. We also love it for protecting, nourishing, and adding shine to hair, especially curly or kinky hair.
Coconut oil can also be used as an intimate lubricant! It is one of the key ingredients in our DIY lubricant recipe, although you can certainly use it for this purpose in its pure state! Coconut oil also has antifungal properties: it could therefore help prevent vaginal yeast infections.
Another popular use is artisanal soap making. Coconut oil produces a beautiful, rich lather in cold-processed soaps. It also contributes to the firmness of the bars, which is why it is present in almost all cold-processed soap recipes.
Moderation tastes much better
Before you slather your body with it as if there were no tomorrow, you should know that coconut oil can dry out the skin (and mucous membranes). Therefore, avoid using it in large quantities over the long term. We often recommend not using more than 20% in cosmetic recipes used daily.
Also, avoid spreading it all over your face like butter on toast: its comedogenic rating is 4 on a scale of 5, meaning it has a strong tendency to clog pores! You can use it as an eye makeup remover, but otherwise, it is better to add just a small amount to a face butter, or reserve it for body care. Of course, these are general tips. Every person is unique and all skin reacts differently. If coconut oil masks are doing wonders for your little face, keep going!
Homemade deodorant (super simple recipe)
For years, I searched for the perfect (commercial) deodorant, without success. After a while, my body would get used to the product and it would stop working. So I had to change deodorants every 2 weeks and alternate. Ridiculous! This homemade deodorant has completely changed my life! Two weeks in Mexico without having to reapply during the day? It's a miracle.
- Mariane
Préparation
10 min
Conservation
12 mois et +
Rendement
120 ml
Virgin and… coconut?
What is a virgin oil? Well no, it’s not an oil made between August 23rd and September 22nd! When we describe an oil as "virgin" or "extra-virgin," it means it was extracted mechanically by cold pressing, without solvents or heat, and has not undergone processing or refining. Virgin and extra-virgin coconut oils also retain the smell and flavor of coconut! Yum! Be aware that our Les Mauvaises Herbes coconut oil is extra virgin. It is perfect for coconut fans!
Cold extraction is the best extraction method for preserving the properties of coconut oil. In the conventional market, some extraction techniques are less than ideal. Hexane is often used as a solvent, a petroleum derivative known for leaving toxic residues in its wake. To remove the solvent, the oil must then be heated to very high temperatures, which destroys many of its therapeutic components in the process. Solvent extraction is less expensive and more productive than press extraction, which explains the lower price of conventional oils.
The moral of this story?
Always choose virgin or extra-virgin coconut oil! Is there a difference between the two? In the case of coconut oil, it is the same thing, unlike olive oil, for which there are regulations that differentiate the two varieties.
And deodorized coconut oil?
To get rid of the smell and beige color of coconut oil, some producers put it through several treatments, including steam treatment and clay filtration – you’d think you were reading a spa treatment menu! These are methods that can be described as "natural" because they do not involve "chemical" solvents, but since it is a form of refining, the oil loses its "virgin/extra virgin" title.
Fractionated coconut oil
Fractionated coconut oil, also called caprylis, is a coconut oil that remains liquid and translucent at any temperature. How is this possible? Its lauric acid (the solid saturated fatty acid) was removed by hydrolysis to keep only a fraction of the oil, hence its name.
Unlike non-fractionated coconut oil, caprylis is not very comedogenic; it can therefore be used on the face without any problem by most people. It is a so-called dry oil, meaning it penetrates the skin very easily without leaving a greasy finish. It is highly valued in the manufacture of face serums and as a carrier to facilitate the penetration of essential oils.
Fractionated coconut oil, like soybean oil, traps the volatile molecules of essential oils and retains their olfactory effectiveness for longer. A property particularly welcome in the making of mosquito repellent oil, perfumes, and aromatherapy roll-ons!
Since it is very light and less "greasy," it is perfectly suited for light cream and face serum recipes, as well as any products used mainly in summer! It holds up well in emulsions, offers good resistance to oxidation, and is also an excellent solvent, making it ideal for oil macerations and as a carrier for essential oils.
In summary
Coconut oil
- solid below 25°C and liquid above 25°C
- comedogenicity rating: 4
- contains about 50% lauric acid
- antibacterial and antifungal properties
- recipes: deodorants, toothpastes, winter face butters, body butters
- extra-virgin oil smells like coconut
- very rich and oily
Fractionated coconut oil (caprylis)
- always liquid, even in the fridge
- comedogenicity rating: 1
- contains myristic acid, palmitic acid, caprylic acid, and capric acid (no lauric acid)
- emollient
- recipes: serums, light creams, essential oil roll-ons, mosquito repellent
- odorless
- fluid and silky texture, penetrates the skin quickly
There! Now coconut oil holds no more secrets for you! You can now know which variety to use in your homemade recipes without cracking your coconut (hehehe).
