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Fabriquer son sérum (et nos meilleures recettes!)
Posted by Les Mauvaises Herbes

Make your own serum (and our best recipes!)

A serum is a rich liquid mixture, very often made from precious vegetable oils. Basically, it is a concentrate of nutrients and active ingredients for the face. Since it generally contains only an oily phase, it will not hydrate the skin per se (unless you concoct a two-phase serum!), but rather help it retain its own moisture, in addition to nourishing and revitalizing the tissues.

A serum is a product that can be customized for all sorts of uses:

– reducing the effects of the sun and external aggressions

– preventing premature skin aging

– providing suppleness & tone

– revitalizing and evening out the complexion

– soothing skin redness

Have you never used vegetable oil in your facial skincare? Are you short on time right now to make a serum? Do you just want to receive it ready-made and fall madly in love with it, day after day? Our ready-to-use flower serum, marshmallow serum, and chamomile serum, all fresh and handmade at our studio, are just waiting for you.

Want to go further? Take a look at our online workshop on making facial serums! This workshop is also available in person at our storefront!

APPLYING A SERUM

Always apply the serum to a clean, makeup-free face. If you want to use it according to the rules of the art, apply it after a toner (or a hydrosol) and before a cream (or a facial butter). Well, since we’re a bit loose and don’t like rigid routines, we often just go by what our skin needs. Often, we don't apply anything before or after, and presto! We start our day. Other times, we apply a lotion before or a cream after if we feel our skin is dehydrated and particularly in need of care. We just go by feel!

You only need a small amount of serum to cover your face and neck, approximately 4 to 10 drops. Warm the serum in your hands and apply it to the skin without rubbing too much. Help it penetrate by tapping gently. If you have a jade roller or a gua sha stone, this is the time to use it!

MAKING YOUR OWN SERUM

To make a minimalist serum, you need very few ingredients: mainly vegetable oils and essential oils. We like to combine two or three vegetable oils to fully cover the skin's needs. Since some specialized facial skincare oils are a bit more expensive, we combine a pricier oil with a "base" oil for a budget-friendly finished product. As for proportions, there are no rules*, you can really have fun with it.

Don't forget to take notes on your experiments so you can adjust your recipe or perfectly recreate your winning formula!

*Even if there aren't really any rules, there is still a certain "basic recipe" that we gravitate toward when it comes time to formulate our serums. For a 50 ml format, we really like opting for 30 to 35 ml of precious oils (you can make a blend of several!) and 15 to 20 ml of the oil macerate of your choice, or the same amount of a base oil or a blend of base oils. To this, we add essential oils (at a concentration of 0.5 to 1%) and vitamin E, and that's it!

But as we said, there are no strict rules. You can make a serum containing simply hemp oil and essential oils, and it will be perfect!

SERUM – RECIPE TEMPLATE

Quantity: 50 ml

Ingredients

48 ml of a blend of base vegetable oils, precious oils, and/or an oil macerate (see our suggestions further on in this article)

7 to 15 drops of essential oils of your choice (see our suggestions further on in this article)

½ pipette of vitamin E (optional)

1 50 ml dropper bottle

Preparation

Pour all the ingredients into the dropper bottle and shake well to mix. That's all!

Don't feel ready to formulate your own blend?

Try the recipes we present below. They will meet your skin's needs and easily introduce you to this gentle witchcraft.

Serum for dry skin - squalane and chamomile

Serum for dry skin - squalane and chamomile

Here's the cocktail all dry skin dreams of! Sunflower oil deeply penetrates the skin to nourish the epidermis, squalane restores and nourishes the skin barrier, and the ceramides in jojoba oil protect against external aggressors. A touch of Roman chamomile is added to soothe irritation. Restored and hydrated skin!
Préparation 10 min
Conservation 12 mois
Rendement 30 ml
Voir la recette
Radiance facial serum

Radiance facial serum

Just for you, a blend of the best complexion-brightening ingredients to reveal your inner summer: a healthy glow effect, sun-prepped skin, and a radiance prolonged by its gentle rays. All of this in one little bottle.
Préparation 5 minutes
Conservation 3 à 6 mois
Rendement 30 ml
Voir la recette
Eye contour serum - evening primrose & rosehip

Eye contour serum - evening primrose & rosehip

Are you looking for a luxurious treatment for your beautiful eyes but lack the time to concoct a cream? This absolutely simple AND effective recipe based on evening primrose and rosehip oil is for you. We've even added revitalizing essential oils that reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. All in a flash.
Préparation 10 min
Conservation 6 à 12 mois
Rendement 30 ml
Voir la recette
Day serum with raspberry

Day serum with raspberry

This raspberry day serum combines my three favorite summer ingredients. It is very well suited for skin exposed to the sun. Without replacing broad-spectrum sun protection, it provides a little touch of natural protection, very practical when you don't apply sunscreen daily. - Audrey
Préparation 3 minutes
Conservation 6-12 mois
Rendement 50 ml
Voir la recette
Face serum for mature skin

Face serum for mature skin

Here's a great serum recipe to support the health of mature skin, as well as skin with imperfections. It contains rosehip oil, an oil with incomparable healing and repairing properties.
Préparation 2 min
Conservation 6-12 mois
Rendement 50 ml
Voir la recette
Biphasic Chamomile and Aloe Facial Serum

Biphasic Chamomile and Aloe Facial Serum

This bi-phase serum is made up of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, intentionally unemulsified. Lighter than a cream, it is hydrating, nourishing, emollient, healing, and soothing thanks to its ingredients. Suitable for all skin types, but acne-prone, reactive, and mature skin will particularly appreciate it.
Préparation 10 min
Conservation 12 mois
Rendement 50 ml
Voir la recette
Anti-redness facial serum (rosacea and couperose)

Anti-redness facial serum (rosacea and couperose)

This serum helps reduce facial redness (rosacea, couperose) and the appearance of scars, and repairs minor skin imperfections. An ideal treatment for sensitive skin that resembles the rosy cheeks of Japanese cartoon characters!
Préparation 5 minutes
Conservation 6 à 12 mois
Rendement 30 ml
Voir la recette

The body shouldn't be left out

It too can benefit from the active ingredients of a serum!

Body serum: Ho wood and wild mint

Body serum: Ho wood and wild mint

This serum is made from hemp oil, a wonderful local resource rich in fatty acids essential for skin elasticity. A touch of mango butter gives it a velvety and soft finish!
Préparation 2 min
Conservation 6-12 mois
Rendement 50 ml
Voir la recette

Choosing ingredients

Okay, we said there were no rules, but there is still one very small one. In our formulation, it is important to take into account the comedogenic potential of the oils.

Huh?

Yes.

Since oils are all unique, the potential for pore-clogging with their molecules varies from one oil to another. For example, sunflower oil is low- or non-comedogenic, whereas wheat germ oil is more so. The comedogenicity scale ranks the index of oils on a scale from 0 to 5, with 0 being none and 5 being very high. Obviously, highly comedogenic oils should be avoided (we aren't showing you any here, by the way), but generally speaking, more comedogenic oils will be present in smaller quantities in the blend. The comedogenicity index of each suggested ingredient is listed below.

1. CHOOSING YOUR OILS

Base oils

SUNFLOWER

Made in Quebec, versatile and accessible, it nourishes dry and very dry skin. It is also a choice carrier for essential oils and macerations.

Comedogenicity index: none

HEMP

It penetrates deep into the tissues and helps restore skin hydration, so it is highly appreciated by dry and dehydrated skin. Its richness in omega-3 fatty acids allows it to reduce redness, irritation, and skin inflammation.

Comedogenicity index: none

CAMELINA

Also made in Quebec, camelina oil is the ally of atopic, sensitive, or irritated skin; it brightens and evens out the complexion.

Comedogenicity index: none

FRACTIONATED COCONUT (CAPRYLIS)

Ideal as a base oil. Its texture is fluid and silky; it penetrates the skin wonderfully without leaving a greasy finish. It is an excellent solvent, therefore a very good carrier for essential oils, and a very good carrier oil for macerations! It helps the active ingredients penetrate the skin.

Comedogenicity index: medium

Precious oils

ARGAN

A must-have cosmetic ingredient for Berber women, argan oil restores radiance to dull skin, prevents premature aging, and supports the regeneration of facial tissues.

Comedogenicity index: none

RASPBERRY SEED

Thanks to its antioxidant content, it helps prepare the skin for tanning and reduces cellular damage caused by sun exposure, in addition to nourishing the skin, brightening the complexion, soothing redness, and reducing the appearance of scars.

Comedogenicity index: very low

ROSEHIP

A classic ingredient in facial serums: it prevents the appearance of wrinkles, nourishes dry skin, and helps reduce the appearance of scars.

Comedogenicity index: very low

JOJOBA

It is the friend of people with combination, oily, or acne-prone skin, although it is suitable for all skin types. Its main action is to regulate sebum production. Sensitive skin also appreciates it! There may be a short adaptation period with this oil: the skin produces more sebum for a few days before returning to normal.

Comedogenicity index: low

Macerated oils

To enhance your serum, you can macerate certain plants in vegetable oil or use an oil macerate that is already ready for use. Plants that lend themselves well to this type of use include calendula, lavender, Damask rose, and chamomile, which revitalize facial skin, reduce redness, and give a healthy appearance to your lovely face! Check out our post on oil macerates so this technique holds no more secrets for you! Otherwise, get our ready-to-use macerates!

2. CHOOSING YOUR ESSENTIAL OILS

Unlike vegetable oils, which are extracted by pressing, essential oils are mostly obtained from the distillation of aromatic plants. They are composed of 100% active ingredients and can do wonders for the skin!

We know that essential oils are very powerful and can be irritating. In facial products, we always use a concentration of essential oils ranging from 0.5 to 1% of the total volume.

For some people with more fragile skin, using the same essential oils in the same place frequently for a prolonged period can eventually sensitize the skin and, in the long run, cause mild reactions. If you know your skin is very reactive, you can change essential oils from one serum recipe to the next to avoid applying the same ones all the time.

How to choose them?

We choose essential oils based on their properties and our skin type (not based on the scents!).

Be careful, essential oils marked with an asterisk (*) are photosensitizing, meaning they increase the risk of sunburns and the appearance of pigment spots. If you incorporate them into a serum, use it only in the evening, or avoid sun exposure (or worse: going to a tanning booth!) for 8 hours after application on the skin.

COMBINATION SKIN

  • black spruce
  • petitgrain bigarade
  • common sage
  • clary sage
  • lemongrass
  • ylang-ylang
  • lemon*

"NORMAL" SKIN

  • ho wood
  • petitgrain bigarade
  • true lavender
  • rose geranium

DRY SKIN

  • ho wood
  • clary sage
  • palmarosa
  • petitgrain bigarade

OILY/ACNE-PRONE SKIN

  • bergamot*
  • grapefruit*
  • patchouli
  • petitgrain bigarade
  • tea tree
  • ylang-ylang
  • lemon*
  • palmarosa
  • rosemary cineole or verbenone

MATURE SKIN

  • ho wood
  • rose geranium
  • palmarosa
  • petitgrain bigarade
  • carrot
  • damask rose

PRONE TO REDNESS

  • rose geranium
  • patchouli
  • cistus
  • cypress
  • helichrysum
  • roman chamomile
  • lentisk pistache

3. A LITTLE EXTRA

VITAMIN E

This is an optional ingredient, but if you are using precious and slightly expensive oils, you can add vitamin E to your serum to extend its shelf life. Vitamin E is a natural antioxidant that slows down the rancidity of oils. It also maintains skin hydration by supporting the hydrolipidic film and reduces damage related to sun exposure.

Add it to your serum at a concentration of 1%, which is ½ pipette for 50 ml of serum.

YOU KNOW ALL OUR SECRETS

And there you have it! You now know all our secrets. It’s your turn to adapt our recipe template to your own needs!

Have fun!

Fabriquer son sérum visage | Atelier en ligne - Les Mauvaises Herbes

Make Your Own Face Serum | Online Workshop

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Huile d'argan bio - Les Mauvaises Herbes

Organic argan oil

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Sérum visage Lumière | tous types de peau - Les Mauvaises Herbes

Radiance Facial Serum | all skin types

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Macérât huileux de camomille du Québec - Les Mauvaises Herbes

Chamomile infused oil

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