Posted by Les Mauvaises Herbes
Recently popular in natural, minimalist hair routines, oil baths have actually been practiced for thousands of years in India, where they're part of Ayurvedic practice, the collection of traditional Indian medicines. The ritual of applying oil to the hair has also long been common in China and several African countries. After testing it many times ourselves, we can vouch for the effectiveness of oil baths, disarmingly simple as they are, for making hair stronger and shinier!
In which cases are oil baths beneficial?
Every kind of mane benefits from a good dose of oil now and then! Vegetable oils nourish and protect our hair; it's a natural way to bring shine back to dull or damaged hair.
Some situations are especially well-suited to it:
– hair that tangles quickly, that's rough or frizzy
– very fine, light hair that's hard to smooth down
– unruly strands or frizz
– dandruff caused by a dry scalp
– split ends and hair that splits
Hair porosity
A little hair anatomy! Each of our hairs is made up of three layers: the medulla (the innermost layer), the cortex (the middle layer, also the thickest), and the cuticle (the outer layer). The cuticle is made up of tiny keratin scales layered on top of one another, overlapping to cover the cortex.
When the cuticle's keratin scales lift or get damaged, hair becomes more porous, meaning it absorbs a greater amount of water when wet.
Healthy hair should be able to absorb a small amount of water while washing, just enough to stay hydrated, without becoming saturated with water. When hair is porous, a large amount of water enters the cortex very quickly during washing. At that point, the cortex swells and causes the cuticle to burst open, causing more damage and making the hair even more porous.
Hair porosity partly depends on genetics, but it can also result from damage to the cuticle. The cuticle gets damaged easily: simply tying up and letting down your hair, brushing it, or washing it changes the cuticle's structure and creates tiny gaps and crevices that water can seep into. That said, it's when hair becomes truly damaged that it turns porous.
There are several possible types of hair damage: heat damage (caused by blow dryers, styling irons, and sun exposure), mechanical damage (brushing, excessive handling), and chemical damage (dyeing, bleaching, relaxing, or perming).
How can oil baths help?
Applied before washing, vegetable oil helps waterproof hair: it creates a temporary film over the cuticle and fills in tiny cracks. This has two effects: this protective film keeps water from entering the hair excessively, and it keeps moisture locked into the cortex.
Oil also reduces friction between hairs while washing, which keeps them healthy. In general, people who practice oil baths describe their hair as silkier, shinier, more flexible, and easier to detangle and comb. You may also notice a calmer, less irritated scalp and more balanced sebum production. Oily hair becomes less oily, and dry hair becomes less dry!
How do you do it?
The oil, or oil blend, should be applied to dry hair. Apply the oil directly to the hair, from roots to ends, before gently massaging it in or using a comb to spread the oil throughout the hair. Focus especially on the hair most exposed to the elements: the top of the head and the ends.
Always apply the oil to dry hair, though not necessarily clean hair (it can contain styling products). Leave the oil in your hair anywhere from 20 minutes to several hours, or even overnight. The more damaged your hair, the longer it's recommended to leave the oil in. Obviously, if you sleep with oil in your hair, protect your pillow well so you don't wake up face-first in oil! Then rinse the oil out in the shower using your usual shampoo. Two consecutive shampoos are often needed!
Applying heat helps oils penetrate deeper into the hair. Avoid very intense or direct heat, like a hair dryer; the goal isn't to fry your hair! Instead, we recommend gentle heat, like wrapping your hair in a warm towel. You can also use your body heat by putting on a shower cap and a toque over it. Not very chic, but effective!
Which oil(s) should you use?
You can use a single oil, or a blend of them. Don't hesitate to combine several oils; they're all compatible. You can mix a very rich oil (castor or coconut, for example) with a lighter oil (hemp, fractionated coconut) to get a more fluid blend that rinses out more easily, or mix a penetrating oil with a surface oil for a broader range of action.
Oils range from very penetrating (which make hair soft and less porous) to oils that stay on the surface (which help with flexibility, elasticity, and lubrication of the hair).
Penetrating oils:
– coconut oil
– fractionated coconut oil
– sunflower oil
– babassu oil
– moringa oil
Moderately penetrating oils:
– castor oil
– Abyssinian oil
– argan oil
– hemp oil
– avocado oil
– apricot kernel oil
– sweet almond oil
– broccoli oil
– sesame oil
– olive oil
Surface oils:
– jojoba oil
– rice bran oil
A quick note on coconut oil: this oil has a rather unique fatty acid profile; it contains very small fatty acids that can penetrate deep into the hair. This effect is well loved by most manes, but some heads of hair are pickier: applying coconut oil can make them stiff and dry. If you've ever tried coconut oil on your hair and got that straw-like drying effect, it simply means coconut oil isn't the right oil for you, not that oil baths aren't for you. Don't hesitate to try again with other oils! Sometimes it takes a few tries before finding THE winning recipe.
How much oil should you use?
There's nothing like testing it out to find out! Some people like using just a tiny amount, while others practically empty a whole bottle of oil onto their head! You can start with a few drops of oil the first few times, then increase the amount with each use, until you find what works for you. You can also get a good clue when washing your hair: if a first shampoo didn't remove almost all the oil, you used too much. You can reduce the amount next time.
Pro tip: watch out for solid or very thick oils (coconut, babassu, castor): use a smaller amount, since they're harder to rinse out!
Pro tip: wear an old t-shirt or something you won't mind staining, and be careful where you rest your head, haha! Your clothes are likely to get oil droplets on them, and your couch cushion or pillow might never be quite the same after hosting your oiled-up mane! Protect them with a towel!
How often should you do oil baths?
You can do an oil bath before every hair wash if you have the time and energy! However, experience shows that oil baths are very effective if done at least once a month.
Try our other hair care recipes!
Creamy hair mask - argan and borage
This pre-shampoo mask is packed with ingredients that deeply nourish, repair, and stimulate hair growth: argan and borage oils, and a synergistic blend of rosemary and clary sage essential oils! It sounds absolutely decadent.
Préparation
20 min
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
3 à 4 masques
Nettle "one-pot" liquid revitalizer
While we're obsessed with solid conditioners, we know they're not for everyone. We absolutely adore this lightweight liquid version, especially how simple it is to make with the famous "one-pot" method. Yes, really! Like those fantastic recipes where you put all the ingredients in a pot and 30 minutes later, it's ready! Thank you, good night.
Préparation
15 min
Conservation
3 mois
Rendement
200 g
Anti-frizz Abyssinian Oil Conditioner
This conditioner bar features Abyssinian oil, a local oil known for its coating and protective properties. Its secret? A smoothing, silicone-like effect… but plant-based. Combined with mango butter and ylang-ylang essential oil, it creates a treatment that envelops the hair fiber, boosts shine, and leaves hair soft, supple, and manageable, without frizz.
Préparation
20 minutes
Conservation
6 à 12 mois
Rendement
1 barre d'environ 80 grammes
Smoothing & strengthening hair serum
Unruly, dull, dry hair? This grapefruit and rosemary hair oil features an exceptional oil: Abyssinian oil! Velvety and incredibly revitalizing, it coats the hair fiber in a silky veil that promotes natural smoothing, strength, and shine, without weighing it down. Expected results: softness, suppleness, and radiance!
Préparation
10 min
Conservation
6 mois à 1 an
Rendement
30 ml
